Use the text theme toggle in the docs template

What does this MR do and why?

The docs template's header uses the text theme toggle the docs chrome now styles (!159 (merged)).

  • The sun and moon icons become the words light and dark.
  • The button's name is its visible text, and aria-pressed is true when the theme is dark.
  • Light is marked on in the markup for a page without script.

Test plan

  • just check adds no failure
  • Template builds with placeholders replaced

Merge request reports

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