Error 500 visiting admin/logs, can't find tail?!

Omnibus GitLab CE 7.10.1

Visiting admin/logs, I get the infamous 500 error. Looking at gitlab-rails/production.log, I see:

Started GET "/admin/logs" for x.x.x.x at 2015-05-01 11:48:35 -0400
Processing by Admin::LogsController#show as HTML
Completed 500 Internal Server Error in 76ms

ActionView::Template::Error (No such file or directory - tail):
    20:               Scroll down
    21:         .file-content.logs
    22:           %ol
    23:             - klass.read_latest.each do |line|
    24:               %li
    25:                 %p= line
  lib/gitlab/popen.rb:23:in `popen'
  lib/gitlab/logger.rb:18:in `read_latest'
[...]

The tail binary is of course available on the system (and in the PATH).

We're currently using gitlab-ce_7.10.1~omnibus.1-1 on Debian 8 but this issue has been present since the very start i.e. circa 7.7.